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Zamboanga City
Southward Bound
By M.D. dela Cruz Tan
PHOTO DETAIL, BY GEORGE TAPAN, COURTESY OF THE DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM
PUBLISHED: JUNE 2009

Jeepney Tours

MINGLING OVER

“Cultural immersion, basically, is living with the natives,” Girlie said.  Apparently, over the years, this emerged as a popular activity among visitors to get to know the locals, particularly the natives, better.  There are, after all, various ethnic groups of people in Zamboanga, often erroneously clumped into a group (i.e. Muslims), though are culturally different from each other: generally, the groups are divided into the Tausug, Yakan, Badjao, Samal, and the Subanon of Zamboanga del Norte and Zamboanga del Sur.

The Campo Muslim is a colony of coastal Tausugs, Samals and Badjaos, all living on stilt houses about 200 meters from Fort Pilar.  Aside from the houses that seemingly sprouted out of the waters, this is also the best place to witness the rising of the colorful sails called vintas, long associated with Zamboanga, as these people set out to the sea.

Not so different is Taluksangay, another “floating” Samal village, with houses on stilts, surrounded by pearl and seaweed farms.  The barangays inland also boast of woodcutting of mangroves gathered from by the seaside.

Everyone who traveled in various parts of the country via a boat has surely heard of the Badjao’s chasing of coins thrown in the water.  Well, symbolizing the poverty that racks many of the aborigines, they still do it even now.  More than anything else, though, they reflect the struggling spirit of Zamboanga – that time and all that it brings do not bend them but keeps them alive.  After all, aren’t Filipinos fond of saying that what doesn’t kill us only makes us stronger?

SHOPPING GALORE

This could well be another cultural immersion, though with a twist since you can shop while visiting.  Not far from the city center is the village of the Yakans, considered among the best weavers in the country, who are among the original inhabitants of the nearby Basilan.  Yakan weaving is so fine that it takes weeks to finish a meter of cloth, often commanding high price because of the craftsmanship.  Fortunately, the weaving tradition continues to be passed from one generation to another, ensuring its survival.

When shopping in Zamboanga, remember that, much like in the past, it is the entry point of various products from all over Asia (and, lately, even the US and Europe).  Thus, particularly if you know where to look, these products can be dirt-cheap.  Talking about looking, there are two ways to do this: check the flea markets or go to the shopping centers.

The concept of ukay-ukay actually started in Zamboanga, with the used clothing shipped from various parts of the world entering first the port of the city.  There are, therefore, major establishments built for this ever-growing business.  Over the years, however, not only clothes but other products started entering the country via the same process, and, fortunately, with the same low prices.  When uncertain with the dealings, however, be safe and head off to the malls.

“Everything for everyone,” Girlie said.  “This is heaven for cheap living!”  And she wasn’t far from the truth.

THE NEW ZAMBOANGUENO

Many of the locals speak Filipino, English, Chinese, Tausug, Maranao, Bisaya, Samal, Ilonggo or Yakan, among others.  But the use of Chabacano, a language that is 70 percent Spanish, with the other 30 percent an amalgam of the other native dialects and languages, makes the place the sole well-developed Hispanic culture in Asia.

The amalgam is also obvious in the food in Zamboanga, which hasn’t changed much, with the abundance of seafood still dictating much of the cuisine, though now prepared in more ways. 

However, even with the various influences, Zamboangueños are said to have generic qualities, foremost are fun loving, family oriented and respectful (of everyone and everything).  Interestingly, all these are obvious when they visit Pasonanca Park, a 58-hectare park located in an area 500 feet above sea level.  With three public swimming pools, the Zamboanga Convention Center, Boy Scout Camp, large forested areas, picnic grounds, and the famed tree-house (built in 1960, visitors may reserve to experience living a la Tarzan and Jane with five-star facilities), it is the favorite place to visit of many, either with the whole family or alone, to get away from the hustle and bustle of modern living.

ZAMBOANGA FIRST


Back in Manila, a friend commented: “Mahirap lang kami,” justifying her inability to travel with the excuse erroneously still used by many, i.e. that not everyone travels because it is elitist.  “It’s not something that ‘people like us’ can afford to do,” she stressed.

“If you are poor, then what would you call me?” I asked jokingly.  I was not, after all, earning as much as she was.  But life is said to be a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.  And, if you start traveling, start with the city not too far to be impossible to reach, but not too close to not have its own distinct cultural offerings.  Discover this city in the southern part of the Philippines, where the past continues to dictate the movement to the future.  Discover la ciudad hermosa (the beautiful city).

HOW TO GET THERE:
Major airlines fly from Manila to Zamboanga City daily. Since it is considered a major pot in southern Philippines, major shipping lines also travel to Zamboanga, while others pass by the city on their way to other destinations in Mindanao.  Zamboanga is also part of the Roll On, Roll Off program of the government, so the alternative means of transportation allows for cheaper travel there. 

ACKNOWLEDGMENT:
The author wishes to thank the Department of Tourism-Office of Tourism Information, particularly Leona Nepomuceno and Cecille Villareal, office of the Zamboanga City mayor, and DOT-IX.

   
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